|
Scroll
down the page or click on a link
|
And there is a lot of STUFF. How will you know what to put in your shopping cart and what to leave on the pet store shelves? So many products, so little budget, how can you choose? :) What does your betta really need and what is completely useless? What will you use on a regular basis and what will just sit at the bottom of a drawer for eternity? Well, that is where I step in. Behold, let confusion be immediately diffused, as I shed some (bright) light into the world of betta supplies and give you the truth, the whole truth and nothing but. Brand names, product description, in many cases approximate prices and even photos. So you will be able to recognize the products immediately when you go to the store ( I rule.... :)) ). Scroll down the page to read it all, or select (from the list to the left) the specific supplies you need and jump to that section. You will love me forever for having put this page together. :)
All this
valuable information, and more, right here on the Number One betta site of
all times (shameless plugging) |
|
Microworm cultures: Microworms are the food of choice for fry between 3 and 30 days old. With a minimum of care, your culture will last you like, forever. A must have for all new breeders out there. My advice to you is: don’t even think of spawning without a culture going. Culture are not available at your fish store so to get one you have to either know a local breeder who could give you a starter culture, or you can try to surf the net and see if someone out there sells them. If you are planning on buying bettas from me, you need not concern yourself with going on a difficult microworm crusade, because they automatically are included with your betta order, free of charge. Cause I know that without them, you'd be SOL. So I get you all taken care of :). , click here |
|
Vinegar eel cultures: Simple to set up, easy to maintain, the Vinegar eels is a great complement to the microworm diet. Vinegar eels are slightly smaller than microworms and the cultures are almost crash proof. Further more vinegar eels swim around in the tank instead of lying at the bottom, so they provide a nice stimulus to the fry who chase after them. And guess what? The snails can't eat them unless they have died and sank to the bottom :)) ! I think this is a nice complement to a microworm culture and this way if your microworms are not climbing, you can always fall back onto your vinegar eels and not lose your newly hatched fry. I do not recommend Vinegar Eel culture as only food as experiments have proved that problems did develop from too much vinegar eel in the diet. Also they can be a bit hard to harvest, so keep them as a back - up and/or to offer some food variety. See our very interesting E-Magazine article on how to harvest them best. |
|
Daphnia cultures: For years now Daphnias have been used to keep lakes and ponds clean. That is because they feed on junk such as: algae particles, leftover food and best of all BACTERIA! (love them Daphnias!!) So now you can have your own little pest control/ cleaning crew in your fry tank. Their eggs hatch in only two days and so they multiply fast. They are easy to keep and best of all Daphnia will never harm fry and fry will initially leave them alone until fry are old enough and large enough to eat all the daphnia. Adult daphnia in your fry tank will reproduce and baby daphnia is small enough to be chased and eaten by small fry. So you also have your own automatic feeders in our fry tank. The only drawback is that daphnia cultures can be unstable, meaning they do great one week and all die the next. So once again they cannot replace the good old reliable microworm culture, but can be great as another source of protein and high fiber for your fry. Finding daphnia cultures is also going to be a real hassle, but I am sure someone out there sells them, so surf and you shall find. :). Daphnia do not travel very well and I recommend ordering them when the weather is moderate, like in early fall or late spring. Also I recommend choosing a fast delivery method (express etc..) |
|
Snail cultures: (not a betta food, but a betta fry best friend) Snails are a fry's best friends. They eat all the junk off the fry tank's bottom and greatly reduce the ammonia and nitrite levels in your fry tanks. Snails hate salt so you must not add salt to your fry tank if you are going to put snails in them. Snails will usually promptly multiply in your tanks. The only draw back is that they can carry diseases so beware of where you get them from! Do not purchase snails at your local pet store, they are kept with fish which carry diseases! In general I have never had a problem with my snails, but I got them from a very very very clean store. |
| product: | store price | |
|---|---|---|
|
|
Tetra's whole
daphnia treats Comes in a box. Each box has several pouches, individually sealed for freshness, containing a rich gel filled with whole daphnia, a nice addition to your betta's diet. Since Daphnia cannot be found frozen and not everybody has the patience to get a live culture going, I thought it would be cool to mention this convenient product here. |
$7.80 |
| AQUATRONICS LINE (MY FAVORITE) | store price | |
|---|---|---|
|
Bettamax
(10 caps) My all time favorite disease preventative! :) Also great all around betta medication especially after spawning breeders to prevent wound infections etc... Not so good with serious nasty diseases (lacks muscle) :) |
$6.00 |
![]() |
Penicillin (10 caps)
Great for some stubborn cases of flesh rot |
$6.00 |
![]() |
Kanacyn
(10 caps)
Recommended all around anti bacterial product. |
$6.00 |
![]() |
Tetracycline
(10 caps)
My number 1 most used medication for any bacterial outbreak. a MUST have. |
$6.00 |
![]() |
Super sulfa
(10 caps)
Fin rot and other fin problems |
$6.00 |
![]() |
Neosulfex
(10 caps)
Great for fin rot (also sulfa based). |
$6.00 |
![]() |
Ampicillex
(10 caps)
Great for popeye and advanced fin and body rot. I use it a lot. |
$6.00 |
![]() |
Hex-a-mit
(10 caps)
The only internal parasite cure out there. Another MUST have for any betta breeder, especially if you feed live food to your bettas. |
$7.50 |
![]() |
Vitamix Plus
(1 oz concentrated formula)
Packed with essential vitamins (including vitamin E for breeding and Bs for fin growth and regeneration) and minerals. Super potent: 1 drop per gallon is all you need. Great for stimulating fry growth or conditioning breeders. |
$7.00 |
| MARDEL LINE | store price | |
|---|---|---|
|
|
Maroxy
(1 oz.)
Great product to prevent egg fungus and good all around disease preventative |
$5.50 |
![]() |
Maracide
(1 oz.)
Clears Velvet super fast! I love this product |
$4.00 |
| JUNGLE LINE | store price | |
|---|---|---|
|
|
Fungus Eliminator
(2.1/2 oz.)
The best product for fin rot in my opinion. The crystal form makes it easy to treat jarred bettas! |
$5.20 |
| AQUARIUM PHARMACEUTICAL | store price | |
|---|---|---|
![]() |
Aquarisol
Still the best ich treatment I know. Use as a preventative and add every time you condition your water to stop parasites cold in their tracks ;). |
$3.00 |
|
|
Clout
Also heavy duty external parasite great medication |
$6.00 |
| product: | store price | |
|---|---|---|
|
|
Methylene
Blue (4 oz.)
Can't call yourself a breeder if you don't have a bottle of Methy Blue somewhere in your fishroom!! Use when receiving new stock or anytime the betta's health might be in question. This is a good disease preventative and can be used every time you add new water. Will not hurt fish. 1 drop per 1/4 jar OK (I do it all the time). |
$6.00 |
|
|
Wide Spectrum
Tonic (4 oz.)
A life saver when your bettas look
"unhappy" but you are not sure why. |
$5.00 |

| product: | store price | |
|---|---|---|
|
|
Spawning tank
large sponge filter
Includes
air stone and wide stem. Fry safe: the sponge material is so fine it makes
it impossible for even the smallest fry to get stuck in the filter. Weighted, will not rise to the top. Ideal for 5
to 10 gal spawning tanks. |
$9.00 |
|
|
Spawning
tank 'small world' corner filter (Pennplax)
I use these all the time and personally swear by them.
They are the perfect height for a half filled spawning tank. Include
suction cups to keep it secured. Come with one cartridge filled with
carbon and filtering media. |
$6.00 |
|
|
Pennplax mini corner filter
cartridges (pack of 2) refills for the Pennplax mini corner filter. Filled with carbon and a sponge. Should be replaced once a month or so. |
$6.00 |
|
|
Submersible
heater 25 W
Visi Therm are my all time favorite heaters. They are high quality, robust, accurate and reliable. Knob is easy to turn even when heater gets old. Ultra powerful suction cups just won't let go. But the best feature is the visual thermostat which allows you to dial visually the desired temp. This is my heater of choice for my spawning tanks. PS: You still must use a regular thermometer in conjunction with this heater. |
$33.00 |
|
|
Floating
thermometer
These are what I use. Simple, effective, inexpensive. Float, so can adapt to any water level, which is a big plus. Never put a heater in a small tank without a thermometer!! You can cook your bettas real easy if you don't monitor the temps carefully ! |
$3.00 |
|
|
Digital
thermometer
These get affixed to the outside of the tanks. Not my favorite, but some people prefer them so I thought I'd offer them here. Their advantage is that they cannot break, so if you are the clumsy kind, maybe you should stick to these :)). |
$3.50 |
|
|
Stress Zyme
(8 oz.)
This will allow your spawning tank to cycle pronto, and will avoid an abrupt rise in the Nitrite levels which usually causes the fry to die. Add it when you first set up your fry tank. Should also be used when setting up a new tank (regardless of the tank's size) or to give a boost to an older tank's filter. I recommend it. |
$10.00 |
|
|
Black water
extract (3.38 oz)
Will get bettas to spawn. Helps keep water soft and recreate the natural conditions encountered in the wild. Works good, I always use it.
|
$4.00 |
|
|
Water
of the world - S.E ASIA
This is a brand new product on the market, which is very promising because it was designed especially to recreate the native water of our Betta Splendens (even has a photo of a betta on it :) ). I have not yet tried it but know some good breeders who are using it as we speak. I say: Give it a shot! |
$10.00 |
|
|
Liquifry
Initially add a drop per gallon to your spawning tank when eggs are laid. Will create a bloom of micro organism which the small betta fry will feed on. Good product, but don't overdose or it will pollute your tank! |
$6.00 |
|
|
Small fish saver
(
2 oz.)
Prevents fungus from attacking your betta's eggs :). Also prevents small fry from being attacked by fungus. It is really a good idea to have this product at hand when spawning. |
$6.00 |
|
|
Also check: air pumps, airline tubing and gang valves you will need to fire up the spawning filters, as well as cleaning supplies to clean your fry tanks and test kits to monitor your fry water quality. |
|
|
store price |
|---|---|
| Elite 799 air pump
Small pump with good lungs :) perfect for a beginner's needs. Can take up to 3 spawning tanks, maybe more. |
$8.00 |
| Elite 802 air pump
Quiet and powerful about twice more air output than the 799. |
$19.00 |
| Elite Optima air pump
The
BIG daddy of the Elite line, I love this one and
have 15 spawning tanks hooked up to it. Could hook up more. It is super
quiet, has a big knob to control air flow. I highly recommend it. Comes
with spare diaphragm :). |
$44.00 |
| air pump accessories | store price | |
|---|---|---|
![]() |
Airline tubing
(by
the foot) Buy only as much as you really need. May save you money. You just have to ask your fishstore for it cause they usually keep it behind their counter (hence hidden from the innocents and the clueless LOL) |
20 cents |
![]() |
Airline
control 11 piece kit Includes 4-T valves, 5 air control valves, 2 suction cups, so you are covered. You can do all kinds of crazy air control maneuvers with this great weapon!! :) Don't go to battlefield without it LOL. |
$3.00 |
![]() |
PennPlax gang valves-
2 way valve (up to 5 way valve)
Allows you to regulate airflow, a must with
bettas especially when setting up a breeding tank. This one has a feature
that allows it to easily hang from tank's edge. Easy to adjust air control knobs. Lasts.
Good quality/price ratio :). My valve of choice. |
$5.00 to $8.00 |
![]() |
Air stones (2
units) I really shouldn't have to explain this one, but just in case you are retarded (LOL) this is the little thingie that makes little bubbles in the water (woaw!!!) (cool dude!). Since one has to replace them often, I suggest the basic, simple and inexpensive ones. The fancy ones cost 6 times more and poop out on you just as fast ;). (or faster??) >:(( |
$1.75 |
Too many filters on the market to cover them all but this is my brand of choice:
|
product: |
store price | |
|---|---|---|
| Penguin
filters with bio wheel These are very good filters that seem to last forever. I have never had one die on me yet. I personally use the big daddy of the line (330), which has two chambers, two wheels and two filter media (double trouble for bacteria hehehehehe). Keep in mind that I use large tanks. Your filter should always be proportionate to your filter size. Too small of a filter on a tank is a recipe for disaster. It will not cycle enough water each hour to clean the volume of water and bacteria, nitrite, etc will rise and eventually kill your fish. On the other hand, too large a filter will move too much water and stress fish from too much water current and movement. In short, if your bettas are all desperately clinging with both pectorals to your plastic plants, with panicked looks on their faces, trying to to get sucked in the siphon you created, you have a size problem LOL. Cause size does matter ;). In this case however, bigger is not necessarily better :P. |
may
cost up to $80.00 (AOUTCH) |
|
![]() |
Mini Penguin
filter with bio wheel I mention this model cause it is a suitable filter for a breeding tank: As the fry grow up inside your 10 gal spawning tank, now looking like small bettas, the small corner filter or sponge filter is no longer efficient enough to clean the fry tank. You need to upgrade the filter. Filter must be small, yet very efficient, and offer complete control over the flow, so you can reduce it as much as you need to alleviate water disturbance. The Mini Penguin Power Filter with bio wheel will do the trick. I highly recommend filters with a bio wheel, it really takes care of ammonia and nitrites and keeps water real clean. Warning: Do not use a power filter unless the fry are at least 1 inch long or more. |
$30.00 |
![]() |
Mini Penguin
filter cartridge (3 pack) These are the manufacturer's original cartridges. Come 3 to a pack. Expensive as hell. (*##@ !!! %$#***&!@@##) |
$9.00 |
|
product: |
store price | |
|---|---|---|
![]() |
PenPlaxx
net
3"
My net size of choice for fishing bettas out of bowls or barracks. Deep so betta won't fall out, extra soft mesh material will not hurt the scales. I like :)! Second nature is no longer making these nets :((( so I now get the PenPlaxx ones, which are very similar in softness. |
$1.70 |
| PenPlaxx soft net
5"
This is the one I use for doing water changes on my jars. Deep so betta won't fall out, extra soft mesh material won't hurt the scales or delicate finnage while manipulating the betta, and plastic hook for easy hanging. I highly recommend. |
$2.25 | |
|
|
Second Nature brine shrimp
net 4" A must have to wash your icky slimy smelly live worms. (yuk). |
$2.00 |
|
|
Fishnet
disinfectant 10 drops in a 1/2 gal jar will disinfect all your fish nets. Just "dip 'em & rinse 'em" for an overnight treatment that will keep your nets free of diseases and prevent the spread of bacteria, fungus and parasites through your fishroom. A must do before each jar cleaning session :), and a must have if you care about your betta's health. WARNING: Highly poisonous so keep away from pets that might decide to drink from the fishnet tub (and get stiff on you :((( ). |
$3.00 |
|
product: |
store price | |
|---|---|---|
![]() |
Algae Pad
scrubber How else are you going to keep that nasty looking green or brown algae off your tank's surface? Gotta scrub :)). This is the tool. Cheap so you won't mind replacing it often, which will prevent you from contaminating new spawning tanks. |
$3.00 |
| |
3 brush set
In order to get the goo out of your power filters tubings, you are going to need these flexible round brushes. They go in where no man has gone before LOL. And out comes the goo. A good idea to have one set handy for those tank cleaning chores. |
$5.50 |
| |
Slim vacuum cleaner
Have to have a few of these to clean your fry tanks and other betta tanks. The slim tubing insures that water flow is gentle so fry will not easily be vacuumed. Great to clean out uneaten food at the bottom. Has a self starting feature but I personally prefer to not use it. |
$7.50 |
|
Python tank cleaning system (25')
Attaches to your kitchen faucet and will self start and vacuum your tank's
water directly into your sink. No sucking on the tube and swallowing of
yucky fish water required LOL. The junk at the bottom gets vacuumed out
effortlessly and you don't even have to haul a single bucket of water!
(boy, I LOVE that part!). Then you use the same system to fill your tank
back up with tap water and add your conditioners directly into your tank.
It's safe, I do it all the time. Doing regular 20% water changes will be a
breeze with this system. If you don't already have one, I question your
sanity LOL. Drawback: a good way to pass a disease from tank to tank if
you are not careful!! |
$70.00 |
|
|
store price | |
|---|---|---|
![]() |
Amquel
(approx 7 oz.)
My product of choice when it comes to making tap water safe for bettas. 1 teaspoon per 10 gallon will neutralize all harmful stuff, including Chlorine, Amonia and Chloramines and heavy metals. Must be used in conjunction with Novaqua (below). |
|
| Novaqua
(approx 7
oz.)
My product of choice when it comes to making tap water safe for bettas. 1 teaspoon per 10 gallon will neutralize all harmful stuff, including Chlorine, Amonia and Chloramines and heavy metals. Will also provide a protective slime coat for your betta. Must be used in conjunction with Amquel (above). |
||
![]() |
PH Down Most of us have hard water and will need to buy PH down bottles, which allow us to lower our PH. Use it every time you prepare water if your tap water PH is high. Use with caution, meaning can't put too much of it in your water , regardless of whether your PH is still high. Why? Cause it's acid, silly. Want to fry your fry? LOL |
$4.00 |
|
|
store price | |
|---|---|---|
![]() |
Water
hardness digital monitor
This is a good gadget in the fishroom. Small, accurate, no messy solutions to mix :). Just fill the small cap with your water and dip the pencil tip in it for 1 second and you'll immediately know what your water hardness is. Very useful when mixing R/O water with regular water. |
N/A |
![]() |
PH test Kit
Easy to use, you will be able to monitor your water's PH so you can match water when doing water changes. |
$5.00 |
![]() |
PH Down Most of us have hard water so I thought I should carry the PH down bottles, which allow us to lower our PH. Use it every time you prepare water if your tap water PH is high. Use with caution, meaning can't put too much of it in your water , regardless of whether your PH is still high. Why? Cause it's acid, silly. Want to fry your fry? LOL |
$4.00 |
![]() |
Nitrite test
Kit
You have to have one of these to monitor your fry tank's water. Fry tanks have a bad tendency to have high nitrite levels which will kill your fry. You gotta monitor it and this is how. |
$7.30 |
![]() |
Amonia test
kit You have to have one of these to monitor your fry tank's water. Fry tanks have a bad tendency to have high amonia levels which will kill your fry. Amonia comes from uneaten food decaying in water. You gotta monitor it and this is how. Also useful to find out if your conditioners are in deed removing ammonia from your tap water. |
$9.00 |
In this section I suggest three possible basic shopping lists for keeping or breeding bettas.